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らぁ麺 鳳仙花 (Hosenka in Shinjuku)

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らぁ麺 鳳仙花 Lighter fish as an ingredient in ramen has been all the rage these days, and Hosenka uses the elegant kinmedai  as their choice of fish. 金目鯛 is splendid alfonsino in English, which probably doesn't help most people. If you live in Japan and enjoy fish, you are most likely a fan. It is often served raw when in season at higher-end sushi shops. When cooked, the entire fish gets braised in soy sauce and mirin. It is a treat accentuated by the fish's golden orange color. Don't expect your ramen to taste like your sushi or 煮物. Instead, it imparts a subtle ocean flavor into the broth. Have you had tai ramen before? Shops using tai snapper are much more common, and the two styles are quite similar. This soup uses ara ; leftover fish bones. While the kinmedai  is the main, the rest is based on availability. Remember, fish is very seasonal in Japan, so you work with what you can get. The eggs from a company called Maximum Koitamago are divine. Apart from the...

一番軒 (Ichibanken in Shinujuku)

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熟成豚骨ラーメン専門一番軒 New shop alert! Actually, new shops are technically nothing new. If you can manage the Tabelog app (it's in Japanese) you can quickly bring up new restaurants in whatever genre you want in whatever part of Japan you want.  I was with some serious ラーヲタ. Raota, or Ramen Otaku, are people who basically think about ramen and nothing else. Raota don't care if a shop is good or not. If they haven't been, they want to go. They suffer from the Pokemon mentality; gotta catch em all. So we went to Ichibanken. The shop is part of a larger ramen chain group, with over 20 shops to their name. The chain hails from Nagoya, Japan's third-largest metropolis. Nagoya tends to be a huge cauldron of citizens from the East and the West (of Japan), so there is a market for almost anything. Good price and quality ingredients are what they bring to the table. I didn't ask, but it was written on the wall and on their website. Normal stuff. Perfect for Kabukiocho, where the Tok...

ラーメンエアーストリーム (Ramen Airstream in Toyama)

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化学調味料無添加&自家製麺 ラーメンエアーストリーム Welcome to Toyama. Toyama is known for their own ramen style, dubbed Toyama Black. You can try it at Taiki . I've tried it a few times, so it was time for something new. Miso to be exact. While they have a few choices on the menu, the staff recommended this tomato flavored bowl. Tomato and miso in the soup, topped with some grated cheese, oregano, and ground chicken. Very satisfying. Ramen Airstream is a bit of a trek south of the city center. This is Toyama, so don't expect much in the way of public transportation. The bus is infrequent, and it is about a 30-minute walk. So I walked. I read that this shop used to be run out of a vintage Airstream trailer. Now, said trailer is used to make the miso. A soy paste fermentation lab inside an old metal trailer? Sure, why not. It was dark and rainy, so I didn't investigate. I think you can rent bicycles from near the main station, making this trip much, much easier. Toyama is flat so that would be t...

橋本食堂 (Hashimoto in Susaki, Kochi Prefecture)

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橋本食堂 My reason for visiting Kochi Prefecture this time around? This guy! He's everywhere, from PR posters to the sides of the city's prized cement factory.  And I was here to meet him. Shinjokun is the local mascot of Susaki City. He's a Japanese river otter, and he loves the local style of ramen, called nabeyaki ramen. Ramen in an earthenware hotpot. It's a style you won't find anywhere else; the rest of the country sticks with the tried and true udon for their hotpots. It was an interesting day. I've worked all sorts of talent around Japan but spending the day with a mascot was a highlight of my many years in Japan. Hashimoto is the towns highest ranked shop. I'd tried a few others, including the famous Mayumi's , but this one really stood out. Richer broth, meatier chicken, the whole thing was a delight. Nabeyaki Ramen must be made with oyadori; mature chicken meat has a stronger flavor.  Another rule is the raw egg. Some people leave it in the broth ...

製麺処 蔵木 (Kuraki in Kochi, Kochi Prefecture)

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製麺処 蔵木 Kochi is about as far from Tokyo as you can get. The main city in one of Shikoku's four prefectures, famous products include katsuo fish and ginger. They have a famous mascot, Shinjokun. He's a Japanese river otter with a bowl of ramen on his head. Yep, pretty far from Tokyo. But the city itself is fairly rad. They have a vibrant downtown with restaurants galore. The local Hirome Ichiba (市場) market is a must hit for local food and drinks (map here ). Every time I've gone here I have made friends. Once, with a group of five co-workers, we met another group of very drunk marathon runners from all over Japan. Never mind that the marathon was the next morning, they were there to have a good time. I kept in touch with one of them and even visited his izakaya in Toyama. This time, I was alone, but the family of four sitting next to me became instant drinking pals, talking trash between our kanpais. Even the six-year-old Taiya-kun told me my Japanese penmanship ...

中華そば 満鶏軒 (Manchiken in Kinshicho)

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中華そば 満鶏軒 Do you know Mengyo ? The snapper-based soup topped with smoked chashu was a huge hit in 2016, and for a hot minute, every foodie seemed to know about it. Well, they moved across the street, and the master opened another shop with a different style in the old space. Duck ramen. Duck ramen, shio or shoyu. The soup is a clear deal, topped with sous vide duck chashu, a smoked egg, and some duck oil. Duck was a huge trend in recent years. Would Manchiken live up to the hype? Everyone who has been loved it, but I think nothing compared to the awesomeness that is neighboring Mengyo across the street. Comparing duck and snapper is like apples and oranges, so let's avoid all that. If you are riding that duck ramen craze, come here for sure. Both shops, by the way, have long lines that converge in a nearby park. Be sure to follow the directions for the different lines. It would be a downer if you waited an hour for the wrong shop.